Organic olive properties for all the layers of the skin
As the different layers of the skin have different functions, so they also have different needs. Olive oil has long been known to offer a multiplicity of benefits in skincare regimes. Olive compounds have been used for their natural, deep penetrating moisturising properties, to maintain skin and muscle suppleness and soften the skin tissue, to heal abrasions, to soothe the burning and drying effects of sun and water, and for many other purposes.
More recently, advancements in technology have enabled highly specific properties of olive oil to be targeted for different needs in skincare. Italian natural ingredient manufacturer Biologica & Tecnologia (B&T) produces high-tech raw materials based on olive chemistry for personal care ingredients. The company has developed an exclusive and patented technology that enables it to process the poly fatty acids and thus develop a sophisticated range of highly compatible skin products.
Sharon Bolel of Sharon Bolel Chemical Marketing (SBCM), which is the sole distributor of B&T products in South Africa, points out that the primary reason that olive derivatives are extremely effective in skincare is their remarkable similarity in fatty acid profile to the skin’s sebum, more so than other natural products.
A group from SBCM recently attended a seminar on the properties of various B&T products. The efficacy through the different layers of the skin was emphasised, as was the organic certification that B&T has secured for several of its products, most notably, EcoCert France approval, enabling these products to be used in formulating cosmetics certified according to ecological and organic standards.
Covering the surface of the epidermis is a hydrolipidic film, which is most exposed to the elements. It requires protection, moisturising, and repair if damaged. “Various olive products are suitable for these purposes,” says Bolel, “but B&T developed Olivem 900 SP, an active ingredient designed for sunscreen products, which has been engineered to improve the dispersion of inorganic UV attenuating agents in sun care formulations and contribute to water proofing by improving the resistance to wash off.”
For cleansing the skin, B&T has Olivem 400, a liquid, skin-compatible anionic surfactant with solubilising which combines mild cleansing properties with an emollient effect after rinse-off. It also reduces the final irritation rate in toiletry formulations, even when SLES ingredients are used. It’s an excellent ingredient for sensitive skin formulations and is also available in a preservative-free form.
For the superficial stratum corneum, B&T developed Sensolene, a functional active ingredient with emollient properties which comprises a fatty acid mixture that mimics the action of the hydrolipidic film and enhances barrier functionality. It is an immediate moisturiser and sustains levels of hydration for long periods. Bolel notes that a particularly appealing trait of Sensolene is its skin sensory modification properties of extreme mildness and softness – just like silk. Also effective for this layer of the skin is Olivem 300, a water-soluble olive oil ester with emollient and sebum recovering properties that reduces the irritation index of a formulation.
The deep stratum corneum requires barrier functionality. Olivem 1000 Crystal Skin is a powerful oil and water PEG-free emulsifying active ingredient with excellent moisturising properties that ensures it penetrates the skin quickly. It also provides high levels of cell protection and spreadability and doesn’t leave a soapy after effect. The homeostatic action of the liquid crystals ensures optimum skin functionality and protection against environmental damage.
B&T’s Eurol BT is a multifunctional active ingredient that operates throughout the skin layers. It is produced from organically-grown olive leaves in a chemical-free extraction process. It is a natural blend of diphenolic structures and its functional activity on human skin includes quenching free-radicals – oxygen, ozone, smoke, UV, etc – and preventing photodamage. Eurol BT has a dynamic effect on water retention as well as on the elasticity of the stratum corneum.
“We’re extremely proud of B&T’s commitment to developing products that target specific needs in skincare, combined with its efforts to ensure that its products are ecologically-friendly and sourced in a sustainable manner. It is a company with integrity and an in-depth understanding of the amazing properties of the olive,” says Bolel.